Frozen Roads & Fiery Skies: 4 Days Chasing Ice and Adventure in Iceland
Iceland, the land of fire and ice, is truly something else, and a lot closer than you'd think. I've had the chance to visit five times now (thanks, ADHD-obessions), and every single trip has been unforgettable. The beauty of Iceland is that you can shape the experience to match your time and mood. From a relaxed few days in Reykjavik with some daytrips to a two-week ring road adventure… or, in this case, an action-packed 4-day escape.
Day 1 - Blue Lagoon & Reykjavik
A spontaneous trip to Iceland! These days, you can fly there from nearly every major European airport. For me, round five, but for my partner in crime, a first. We took off at 8:00 and landed by 10:15, which meant we still had a full day ahead of us.
In the spirit of budget travel, we booked the cheapest rental car... which magically got upgraded to a much larger ride. First stop: the Blue Lagoon. And yes, our budget mindset was immediately tossed out the geothermal window :) :). €200 later (but who's counting anyways…), we floated blissfully in that otherworldly blue water. You do get a drink and a mud mask for the price, so let’s call it a necessary splurge.
Post-soak, we made our way to Reykjavik. Not via the usual route, though since it was closed due to a fresh volcanic eruption. Classic Iceland.
Our hotel was right in the heart of the city, so we dropped our bags and headed straight out. Walked along Laugavegur, stopped by the Hallgrimskirkja, and grabbed a hot chocolate with rum at the tiniest Christmas market (five stalls, max.). It was freezing, but worth it. We ended the night at a touristy-but-fun restaurant that served fermented shark, whale, sheep's head, and reindeer. I went for the reindeer, Egbert had fish stew, and we washed it all down with a local beer before strolling back to the hotel via the harbor.
Day 2 - Golden Circle Time!
Time for Iceland's most iconic route: the Golden Circle. Stops included Þingvellir, Geysir, and Gullfoss, before making our way south to Vík.
We hit the road at 9:00 in complete darkness (sunrise isn’t until around 10:30 in winter). At Þingvellir, we braved the drizzle and wind to walk between the tectonic plates of North America and Eurasia, pretty surreal!
Next up: Geysir. There’s really only one that erupts, but it does so reliably. We joined the crowd for a few eruptions and took in the steamy, sulfur-scented landscape before heading to Gullfoss.
The wind chill was brutal (feels-like -20°C), but the icy waterfall was absolutely worth the trek. Gullfoss in winter is very impressive… the force, the ice, the stillness....
By 15:30, we were racing the darkness to Vík. Winter driving in Iceland means sticking to a tight schedule. The roads were a mix of ice, rain, and pure focus, but we arrived just before sunset. Dinner for that night? Pub food, a quick beer, and lights out by 21:30. Exhausted but happy!
Day 3 - Road trip to Jökulsárlón!
The destination: Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, about 2.5 hours each way. We left early, in the middle of a snowstorm, and hit the open road.
The drive was spectacular. Mountains, valleys, emptiness, and Europe’s largest glacier by our side most of the way. We arrived at the lagoon to find bright blue icebergs floating in still water. Even better: five seals popped up to say hello.
We crossed over to Diamond Beach where the icebergs meet the black sand. Add a golden sunrise (which actually takes hours in December with the little amount if daylight) and you’ve got a scene straight out of a movie.
After lunch near a frozen lagoon, we continued to Svínafellsjökull for a short hike and even better views. Much more quiet then Jökulsárlón, and much more rugged, and you can even get so close you can actually touch the glacier (but be careful!).
The return trip was equally beautiful until we hit another snowstorm near Vík. Dinner at a pizza place, a quick check for northern lights (clouded over), and straight to bed.
Day 4 - A last but very full day…
Last day already, but packed with highlights! After breakfast around 9:00, we left for Black Beach in Vík under clear skies. It’s a black pebble beach next to some stunning cliffs, but the real showstopper was the wild, wild sea. There are warnings everywhere about so-called “sneaker waves”—waves that crash much further inland than you'd expect, dragging unsuspecting people into the ocean. The power is no joke, and sadly, it can be deadly. So don’t be like some tourists, be careful!
Next up: a bucket list dream come true… the crashed Dakota (I’ve been a flight attendant on one for three years, so I have a secret obession with this plane…)! We took a shuttle bus, this takes just 10 minutes, while walking would’ve been 1.5 hours through rough terrain. The plane crashed in the 1970s while flying from the east to Reykjavik and ran into a storm. The weather for our visit was perfect: snow showers in the distance, sun rising behind us, and that moody Icelandic sky. Perfect photo opportunity, a Kodak-momentje.
After about 40 minutes at the site, it was time to head to the airport—but easier said than done. It started snowing heavily, the roads turned into ice rinks, and we stopped once more at Skógafoss waterfall for a quick (and slippery) walk. From there, it should’ve been a 3.5-hour drive to Keflavík, but we ended up needing five. Visibility dropped to just 5 meters in places, with heavy snow and poor road conditions all around.
We flew back around 8:00 PM. By 6:30 we were at the airport, breezed through check-in, and boarded just in time. The flight was smooth, we caught a final glimpse of the northern lights from the window, scored some free snacks from the crew (win!), and landed back in Amsterdam close to midnight.
Travel Tips
Iceland is great to visit year-round, but keep in mind that winter days are very short. The weather can change quickly, and roads can become dangerous fast. Not every tourist is comfortable driving in these conditions. For up-to-date road info, check this website.
For winter trips, rent a reliable, sturdy car. Don’t try to save money here—we got lucky with a free upgrade, but it made a huge difference.
Book your Blue Lagoon tickets in advance. It’s much cheaper than buying last-minute at the entrance!
This trip is easily extendable. Adding an extra night in Vík gives you the chance to visit Seljalandsfoss, go on a glacier hike, or explore the Vestmannaeyjar islands.
Route Recap
1: Reykjavik
2: Reykjavik to Vik, via The Golden Circle
3: Vik to Jokulsarlon & back
4: Vik to Keflavik via Black Beach, the crashed Dakota and Skógafoss.
